How is the asphalt shingle installed?

Although all types, styles and sizes are placed in a similar way, each will have some peculiarity in terms of its placement that you should know.

Step 1 - Cover ready

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Ensure that the cover concrete or wooden deck are clean and free of dust. On the concrete deck you must apply a layer of mortar 2.5 to 3 mm thick in a 1: 3 ratio (cement: sand). For 12mm or ½ " OSB or Plywood / Plywood boards - they should be dry, even and smooth. Follow the wood board manufacturer's instructions regarding nailing and spacing. As well as the recommended moisture level before of the installation of the asphalt shingles.

The slope should be a minimum of 9.5 degrees or 17% but the recommended is 18 degrees or 33% or higher to vertical surfaces or walls. (You can read more about the minimum slope here >> What is the minimum slope to be able to install asphalt shingle? )

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Step 2 - Drip edging

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Metal or plastic drip edging should be installed every 12 "inches to protect wood or concrete edging and to allow water to flow smoothly through the eave gutter.

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Step 3 - Substrate or coating

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On concrete: No asphalt felt or substrate is needed. Two coats of asphalt primer are applied and must be completely dry before applying the asphalt shingles.

On wood: must apply a Felt Asphaltic # 15 or synthetic felt, extending over the entire eaves roof to the horizontally overlapping 5 cm between each roll horizontally and between start and end of each roll one on vertical position of 10 cm. On low slopes between 9.5 degrees and 18 degrees (17% to 33%) you have 3 options: 1) apply a double layer of synthetic Felt, 2) use theself- adhering waterproof membrane with an overlay of 10 cm horizontally and vertically, and 3) waterproofing with a sand-based roll asphalt membrane.

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Step 4 - Start Row

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The first starter course should be cut 15 cm from one side to ensure that the joints of the starter course do not correspond to the joints of the asphalt shingles. It should also protrude 12 mm or ½ "from the edge of the wood or the water drip.

The starter shingle can be obtained from the Marathon Traditional 3-tab asphalt shingle by cutting the sheet horizontally separating the tabs.

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Step 5 - Application of hammered tiles

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3-tongue asphalt shingles:

Start with a full shingle aligned with the starter course and complete the line with full shingles.

The second line begins with a tile to which you cut half a tongue and continues with full tiles, the third line begins with a tile to which you cut 1 tongue and continues with full tiles and so on, it cuts half a tongue in each additional line. From the seventh line repeat the pattern starting with a complete tile.

Hammer 4 galvanized stud nails 25mm - 1 ”long with flat head and 9-10mm diameter per shingle. Drive nails underneath the self-sealing row, 2.5 cm from each edge and the two additional nails above each cutout that forms the tabs and below the self-sealing row.

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The overlapping of the tiles is done by placing the lower part of the upper tile aligned with the part where the cut that forms the tabs on the lower tile ends. It does NOT line up with the self sealing row.

The self-sealing asphalt course melts in the sun's heat and sticks the shingles together.

In cold climates where there is not enough heat, you must do manual bonding with 3 drops of plastic cement as shown in the drawing.

For areas with strong winds, slopes greater than 60% up to vertical walls, 6 nails and three drops of plastic cement must be applied under each tongue.

DO NOT REMOVE THE GLOSSY TAPE OR STRIPE THAT COMES BEHIND THE SHINGLE.

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Step 6 - Application of ridge line and hip

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The installation of the ridges must be in the opposite direction to the prevailing wind direction.

The diagonal cut is to avoid protruding when overlapping with the next ridge, the diagonal cut should not be more than 2.5 cm (1 ”) on each side, to ensure that when hammering the ridge at 3.81 cm (1 ½” ) of the edge is also nailing the top of the ridge underneath.

Fold each tab in the center and apply over ridge and hip, exposing 5 5/8 ”of each shingle to the elements. Nail 6 1/4 ”(15.9 cm) from the exposed tip and 1 1/2” (3.8 cm) inside on each side.

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Step 7 - Closed roof valley

Put on a cloak waterproofing or an asphalt membrane centered along the valley to give added protection to the water. For proper water circulation over trimmed shingles, always begin shingling at the plane of the roof that has the least slope or height. Extend the final shingle a minimum of 12 ”(30 cm) towards the adjacent part of the roof, as shown in the Image. Do not make joints in the valley. If a shingle is short, add sections of one or two tabs so that the joint occurs at least 12 inches from the center of the valley. Firmly press the shingles into the valley. Then take the tiles from the opposite plane and after marking a vertical chalk line 5 cm before the center of the valley, Trim the shingles as you lay them along the chalk lines to ensure a clean installation. Trim 1 ”(2.5 cm) at a 45 degree angle from the top corner of each end tile at time of installation. This will direct the water into the valley. Finally, apply a 7.5 cm (3 ”) wide strip of plastic roofing cement to the end of each shingle.

Note: The first course of shingles (and only the first) of the roof surface that is moved to the other plane must interlock with the first course.

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Step 8 - Metal flanges

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It is recommended to use flange and countertop when the ceiling ends in a wall. The galvanized metal flange is hammered into the deck and left loose on the wall, then a strip of plastic cement is applied and the tile is laid on top. The counter flange is fixed between the wall bricks and is left loose on the vertical wall, this ensures that the flanges and counter flanges are not damaged when the chimney and ceiling are moved independently.

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Step 9 - Ventilation

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Ventilation in wood decking ceilings is a warranty requirement - if you do not install ventilation the warranty is reduced to 10 years. On concrete roofs, no ventilation is required.

It is essential to have adequate ventilation that allows the air to circulate freely under the wooden deck, removing hot air and water vapor, before night falls and with the cold it condenses, and said moisture is absorbed by the wood and rot it. An efficient system should have an air inlet at the eaves or very close to the eaves and an air outlet at the ridge or very close to the ridge that allows a continuous flow of fresh air to remove hot air, steam, and dust. humidity. 50% of the ventilation capacity must go at the eaves and the remaining 50% at the summit or very close to it. An adequate system balanced and according to the size of the roof can reduce the internal temperature of the house by up to 5 degrees Celsius. For every 150 square meters of attic floor it is required to evacuate 1 square meter of air. Consult the vent manufacturer's installation instructions or installation guide.

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